BIRDING IN ABRA MALAGA

Birding in Abra Malaga—A Birdwatcher’s Paradise in the Heart of Peru

Where Birding Dreams Meet the Andes

If you’ve ever dreamed of birdwatching in Peru, chances are someone has mentioned for Birding in Abra Malaga. And if they haven’t, they should have. Tucked away just above the town of Ollantaytambo, on the way to Machu Picchu, this high mountain pass is one of those places that lives in the stories birders tell each other over coffee or cold beer after a long day in the field.

Abra Malaga isn’t just famous because of its birds (though they are spectacular). It’s famous because it offers something rare in the birding world: easy access to an incredible diversity of habitats, packed with endemic birds, rare species, and breathtaking landscapes—all within a relatively small area.

A Place that Made Theodore Parker Stop and Stare

Even Theodore Parker III, the legendary American ornithologist, fell in love with birding in Abra Malaga. If you’ve read about him, you know he was a tough critic—he’d been everywhere. Yet, Parker called this spot one of his favorite birding locations in Peru. His surveys in the 1980s helped bring international attention to the site, and many of the routes we bird today follow the same paths he took.

When you’re standing on the roadside at 4,300 meters (14,100 feet), scanning for a Royal Cinclodes in a patch of ancient Polylepis trees, it’s easy to imagine Parker doing the same, decades ago.

Why Abra Malaga Should Be on Your Birding List?

What makes Abra Malaga special isn’t just its history—it’s the incredible variety of birds and habitats packed into a day (or two) of birding. In the span of a few hours, you can move from cloud forest dripping with moss and orchids, to elfin forest, to windswept puna grasslands, and even climb higher to the Polylepis woodlands of Thastayoq.

And the birds! This is prime territory for Peruvian endemics, like the White-browed Tit-Spinetail, Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, and the ultra-rare Royal Cinclodes. Not to mention the mixed flocks of colorful tanagers, flowerpiercers, and hummingbirds that leave you spinning trying to keep up.

Easy Birding… or a Challenge—You Choose

One of the best things about Abra Malaga is its flexibility.

• Want easy birding? No problem. The elfin forest, cloud forest, and puna are all accessible right from the main road. You’ll spend the day hopping out of the vehicle, walking short stretches, and ticking off lifers before heading back to Ollantaytambo for a well-earned meal.
• Looking for a hardcore adventure? Then plan for the Polylepis forest at Thastayoq. It’s higher up, requires a bit of a hike (and the thin air makes it a workout), but if you want that Royal Cinclodes, this is where you’ll find it.

A Quick Look at the Numbers

• Elevation range: 2,800 m (9,200 ft) to 4,300 m (14,100 ft)
• Habitats: Cloud forest, elfin forest, puna grasslands, Polylepis forest, paramo, and intermontane valleys
• Endemic species: Over 13 species restricted to the Abra Malaga area
• Effort level: Easy to moderate along the road; moderate to difficult for the Polylepis forest hike

The History of Birding in Abra Malaga—From Local Knowledge to Theodore Parker’s Legacy

Before the Checklists—The First Birdwatchers in Abra Malaga

Long before Abra Malaga became a must-visit destination for birders from around the world, it was simply part of the landscape for the local communities. For centuries, the Quechua people living in the surrounding valleys knew the rhythms of this mountain pass. They recognized and painted hummingbirds in pottery, textiles and even created giantic designs in the dessert of hundreds of kilometers.

It’s worth remembering that the first birdwatchers in Abra Malaga weren’t carrying scopes and checklists. They were herders, farmers, and hunters who moved through these landscapes as part of daily life, 11 thousand years before modern ornithology arrived.

Enter the Scientists: The First Ornithological Expeditions

Scientific interest in Abra Malaga picked up during the 20th century. Ornithologists began to realize just how unique this stretch of the Andes was, particularly because of the Polylepis forests, which act as islands of biodiversity at high elevations.

These gnarled, ancient trees—sometimes called the “paper trees” because of their flaky bark—support species found nowhere else on Earth. By the 1970s, researchers had started cataloging what was here. But it was in the 1980s that Abra Malaga really caught the attention of the global birding community.

Theodore Parker III: The Birder Who Put Abra Malaga on the Map

No history of birding in Abra Malaga would be complete without mentioning Theodore A. Parker III. Known for his incredible ear—he could identify nearly every Neotropical bird species by sound—Parker was already a legend in his time.

In the early 1980s, Parker conducted extensive surveys in the Peruvian Andes, and Abra Malaga became one of his most significant stops. He was among the first to realize the critical importance of the Polylepis forests here, particularly for hosting endangered and endemic birds with high reverence Parker.

Today, many of the species he documented here are still must-sees for birders who follow in his footsteps.

The Rise of Abra Malaga as a Birdwatching Hotspot

Following Parker’s work, more and more birders and scientists started making the pilgrimage to Abra Malaga. Conservation organizations recognized the importance of protecting the Polylepis habitat, and local birding tours became more common.

In the 1990s and early 2000s, the road over the pass was improved, making birdwatching in Abra Malaga more accessible. What used to require multi-day expeditions with camping gear became an easy day trip from Ollantaytambo.

Now, birders can explore a global birding hotspot that offers comfortable birding along the road, with optional more strenuous hikes for those chasing Andean endemics.

Why This History Matters for Today’s Birders

When you’re standing in Thastayoq, breathing the thin air at over 4,300 meters, scanning the Polylepis forest for rarities such as White-browed Tit-Spinetail, you’re not just on a birding trip—you’re participating in a story that stretches back generations.

From Quechua herders to scientific expeditions to modern-day birders, Abra Malaga is a place where people have always paid attention to birds. The difference now?
You have a chance to help protect these habitats and species for future generations of birdwatchers.

Endemic Birds of Abra Malaga—Peru’s Winged Treasures

One of the biggest draws for birders visiting Abra Malaga is the chance to see Peruvian endemic species—birds found nowhere else on the planet. For many of us, these endemics are the real stars of the show. They are the reason we wake up in the dark, layer on jackets, and head out into the thin, chilly air of the high Andes.

And in Abra Malaga, you’re in one of the richest places for endemics in the entire country.

What Makes Abra Malaga So Special for Endemics?

Abra Malaga is a biodiversity hotspot thanks to its wide range of elevations and habitats, from cloud forests and elfin forests to puna grasslands and Polylepis woodlands. These ecosystems create isolated niches where certain species have evolved over thousands of years, adapting to very specific environments.

Many of the Peruvian endemics here are also range-restricted, meaning they only exist in small pockets of habitat. Some are even critically endangered, with populations in sharp decline due to habitat loss and fragmentation.

As a birder, seeing these species isn’t just a tick on your life list—it’s a connection to some of the most fragile and irreplaceable wildlife in the world.

The Must-See Endemics of Abra Malaga

Here’s a closer look at some of the endemic birds that make birding in Abra Malaga so unforgettable.

Royal Cinclodes / Unstreaked Tit-tyrant

Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch / Urubamba Antpitta

White tufted Sunbeam / Smoky Bush-tyrant

Andean Condor / Blue-moustached Barbet

1. Royal Cinclodes (Cinclodes aricomae)

• Status: Critically Endangered
• Where to find it: Polylepis forest at Thastayoq (above 4,200 m)
• Why it’s special: This bird is often at the top of every birder’s wish list in Abra Malaga. The Royal Cinclodes is critically endangered due to its dependence on intact Polylepis woodlands, which are increasingly rare. Finding one is never guaranteed, but when you do, it’s a moment you’ll never forget.

I remember guiding a group last year when we spotted one hopping between mossy boulders at sunrise. We all stood in silence, nobody even reaching for their cameras at first. It was pure magic.

2. White-browed Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura xenothorax)

• Status: Endangered
• Where to find it: Polylepis patches at high elevation
• Why it’s special: Tiny, hyperactive, and beautiful in its subtle way, the White-browed Tit-Spinetail is another Polylepis specialist. They can be surprisingly cooperative once you find them, often moving quickly through the low branches.

This species was one of the first Peruvian endemics I saw when I started guiding at Abra Malaga, and I still get excited every time one shows up.

3. Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes alpinus)

• Status: Endangered
• Where to find it: In and around Polylepis trees, often near White-browed Tit-Spinetails
• Why it’s special: Another classic high-elevation endemic. The Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant is full of character—often hanging upside down like a chickadee, flicking its tail as it searches for insects.

If you hear a sharp “tzee-tzee”, start looking—it’s probably nearby.

4. Creamy-crested Spinetail (Cranioleuca albicapilla)

• Status: Least Concern (but range-restricted)
• Where to find it: Cloud forests and elfin forests, mid-elevation zones
• Why it’s special: This spinetail is much easier to find than some of the Polylepis specialists but no less interesting. Its white crown and spiky crest make it easy to recognize as it forages in dense shrubs along the roadside.

5. Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant (Uromyias agraphia)

• Status: Near Threatened
• Where to find it: Elfin forest and cloud forest edges
• Why it’s special: One of those birds that you might overlook if you’re not paying attention. But once you get your bins on it, the Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant is quite attractive in its understated way. Often seen with mixed-species flocks.

6. Cusco Brushfinch (Atlapetes canigenis)

• Status: Near Threatened
• Where to find it: Cloud forests and dense understory near Abra Malaga
• Why it’s special: Formerly considered part of the Slaty Brushfinch complex, the Cusco Brushfinch has been recognized as a distinct species and is endemic to this region. They can be elusive but often respond well to pishing.

Additional Notable Endemics and Near-Endemics

• Tawny Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura yanacensis)
• Chestnut-breasted Mountain Finch (Poospiza caesar)
• Marcapata Spinetail (Cranioleuca marcapatae) (found nearby but can be targeted on extended itineraries)

Conservation Status and Challenges

Many of these species are under pressure due to habitat degradation. Polylepis forests, in particular, are threatened by logging, grazing, and fire. Conservation initiatives are underway, including community reforestation projects and protected area management, but continued support is vital.

As birders, our presence can help by:
✔️ Supporting eco-tourism that benefits local communities
✔️ Contributing to citizen science with eBird lists
✔️ Raising awareness about these fragile ecosystems

See the Bird List for Abra Malaga birds for birding in Polylepis here, and the cloud forest here.

Exploring the Diverse Habitats of Abra Malaga—A Birdwatcher’s Dreamscape

One of the most extraordinary things about birding in Abra Malaga is how quickly the landscape changes as you move along the road. In just a few kilometers, you pass through an incredible variety of habitats, each with its own set of birds. It’s like flipping through the pages of an entire field guide in a single morning.

I always tell clients: “Abra Malaga is not just a single birding site—it’s several different worlds stacked on top of each other.” And that’s exactly what makes it one of the best spots for birding vacations in Peru.

– The Intermontane Valley: Where the Journey Begins (2,800 m / 9,200 ft)

If you’re coming from Ollantaytambo, your day often starts in the intermontane valleys around 2,800 meters (9,200 ft). It’s a dry, scrubby landscape with patchy vegetation, but don’t let that fool you—there are gems here.

Keep an eye out for:

• Bearded Mountaineer (Peruvian endemic)
• Rusty-fronted Canastero (Peruvian endemic)
• Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch (Peruvian endemic)
• Creamy-crested Canastero (Peruvian endemic)
• Junin Canastero (Peruvian near endemic)

This is usually a quick stop on our way up the pass, but it’s a great warm-up to get your binos working.

– Elfin Forest: Enter the Mossy Realm (3,300 – 3,600 m / 10,800 – 11,800 ft)

As we climb higher, the landscape shifts to elfin forest, an enchanted place if there ever was one. These forests are twisted and stunted, dripping with moss and bromeliads. It often feels like you’ve stepped into another world—quiet, cool, and full of life.

Bird highlights here include:

• White-tufted Sunbeam (Peruvian endemic)
• Urubamba Antpitta (Peruvian endemic)
• Puna Tapaculo
• Diademed Tapaculo
• Puna Thistletail

It’s an easy area to bird because the road runs right through it, and the car is always nearby. The pace here is relaxed, and you can spend hours watching mixed flocks sweep through the mossy branches.

– Cloud Forest: The Heart of Abra Malaga (2,600 – 3,000 m / 11,800 – 13,100 ft)

As you keep going, you enter the cloud forest. This is where Abra Malaga really starts to show off. Clouds drift through the trees, the air is moist and cool, and the birdlife is rich.

This section is birding heaven. Some of the stars here are:

• Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant (Peruvian endemic)
• Cuzco Brushfinch (Peruvian endemic)
• Marcapata Spinetail (Peruvian endemic)
• Parodi´s Hemispingus (Peruvian endemic)
• Red-and-white Antpitta (Peruvian endemic)
• Gray-breasted Mountain-toucan

Mixed flocks can be busy here, and the calls of antpittas echo through the forest. This habitat is easy to bird along the roadside with short walks. Many birders spend most of their day here, and honestly, it’s hard to leave.

– Puna Grasslands: Wide-Open Spaces Above the Clouds (4,000 – 4,300 m / 13,100 – 14,100 ft)

As you break through the cloud forest, the landscape opens up into puna grasslands. These windswept high plains stretch toward the snowy peaks of the Vilcanota range.

At first glance, it looks empty. But once you scan carefully, you’ll find:

• Andean Goose
• Gray-breasted Seedsnipe
• Paramo Pipit
• Andean Condor
• Urubamba Canastero

The puna is stark and beautiful, with clear skies that make spotting raptors like the Variable Hawk easier. This area is also quite accessible—no tough hiking, just slow driving and scanning the slopes.

– Polylepis Forest at Thastayoq: The Crown Jewel (4,200 – 4,300 m / 13,800 – 14,100 ft)

Now we get to the Polylepis forest, and specifically Thastayoq, which, for many, is the highlight of birding in Abra Malaga. But fair warning—this is where things get tough.

The Polylepis woodland sits at high elevation (over 4,300 m / 14,100 ft) and requires a steep hike of around 4-5 hours, depending on your pace and fitness. The air is thin, and the trail can be rough. I always remind my clients: “Go slow, drink water, and take your time. The birds will wait.”

And they’re worth it. Some of Peru’s rarest and most endangered birds live here:

• Royal Cinclodes (Critically Endangered)
• Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant (Endangered)
• White-browed Tit-Spinetail (Endangered)
• Tawny Tit-Spinetail
• Giant Conebill

The Royal Cinclodes, in particular, is a bird that makes even the most seasoned birders grin like kids. There’s something special about sitting quietly in a patch of ancient Polylepis, waiting for this mythical species to show itself.

Why These Habitats Matter

Each of these habitats plays a crucial role in the biodiversity of the Andes, and Abra Malaga is one of the few places where you can experience them all in one place. Whether you’re chasing Peruvian endemics, building your life list, or just soaking up the Andean atmosphere, these habitats offer something for everyone.

And because you can bird most of these areas right from the road, it’s perfect for birders of all abilities. The only physically demanding part is the Polylepis hike at Thastayoq—and even that’s optional.

Planning Your Birding Trip to Abra Malaga—Routes, Elevations, and Itineraries

If you’re thinking about adding Abra Málaga to your birding vacation in Peru, congratulations—you’re on the right track. Whether you’re chasing Peruvian endemics, hoping for that once-in-a-lifetime sighting of a Royal Cinclodes, or just want a taste of Andean birding, this guide will help you plan the perfect trip.

I’ve led dozens of tours here, and if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that good planning makes a huge difference—especially when you’re dealing with high altitudes and changing weather conditions.

Where Is Abra Malaga?

Abra Málaga is about 25 kilometers (15 miles) east of Ollantaytambo, right on the road that heads towards Quillabamba. From Cusco, it’s around 100 kilometers (62 miles), and the drive takes about 2.5 hours. Most birders stay in Ollantaytambo, which offers comfortable accommodation and easy access to the pass.

If you’re already in the Sacred Valley or en route to Machu Picchu, it’s very convenient to add Abra Málaga to your itinerary.

Best Time of Year for Birding in Abra Malaga

You can bird Abra Malaga year-round, but each season has its quirks.

• Dry season (May to October): Clear skies, cooler temperatures, and more stable weather. Trails are easier, and mornings can be spectacular.
• Wet season (November to April): Lush landscapes and more singing birds, but expect frequent rain and muddy conditions, especially in the Polylepis forest.

Most birders prefer the dry season for comfort, but don’t let the rain scare you—some of my best birding days here have been under gray skies.

If you think the dry season is the only birdable season, read this article which shows the pros and cons of Dry and Rain seanson here.

Elevations and Physical Effort

• Elfin forest and cloud forest zones: Birding is easy. You’re mainly along the road, hopping out of the vehicle when needed. Elevation is 3,300 – 3,800 m (10,800 – 12,500 ft), but the road makes it very accessible.
• Puna grasslands: Also easy, but exposure to wind and cold can be challenging. Elevation here is 4,000 – 4,300 m (13,100 – 14,100 ft).
• Thastayoq Polylepis forest: Moderate to difficult due to the hike and elevation (4,200+ m). Clients should be acclimatized, take their time, and stay hydrated.

If you’re not comfortable with the hike, there’s no pressure. At least 50% of the best birds of Abra Malaga are right along the road.

What to Bring on Your Abra Malaga Birding Trip

Here’s the checklist I send to all my clients before a trip:

✔️ Binoculars (8×42 or 10×42 recommended)
✔️ Spotting scope (helpful in open areas like the puna)
✔️ Camera (optional but highly rewarding)
✔️ Layered clothing: It’s cold in the morning, but can warm up quickly
✔️ Rain gear: Weather changes fast
✔️ Hat and gloves: Essential at higher elevations
✔️ Comfortable hiking shoes
✔️ Water and snacks
✔️ Sunscreen and sunglasses: The sun can be intense at altitude
✔️ Walking stick (optional, but helpful for the Thastayoq hike)

Day Pack Essentials

Your day pack is your lifeline at Abra Malaga. Make sure it includes:

✔️ Water bottle or hydration bladder (1.5 to 2 liters minimum). The dry air and altitude mean dehydration sneaks up fast.
✔️ High-energy snacks (nuts, granola bars, fruit).
✔️ Sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher). Even on cloudy days, UV exposure is strong.
✔️ Lip balm with SPF.
✔️ Small first aid kit (including personal meds for altitude sickness if you’re prone).
✔️ Hand warmers (optional, but a nice comfort in the early morning).
✔️ Notebook and pen or birding app for lists (some clients use Merlin or eBird offline).

Altitude Considerations: Be Ready

Abra Malaga’s elevation is a matter to consider.

✔️ Tips to handle the altitude:

• Spend at least one night acclimatizing in Ollantaytambo or Cusco before birding Abra Malaga.
• Walk slowly—this isn’t a race.
• Stay hydrated, and avoid alcohol the night before.
• Coca tea is commonly offered in Peru and can help with mild altitude symptoms.
• If you have a history of altitude sickness, consult your doctor about medication like acetazolamide (Diamox) before your trip.

Optional Gear I Recommend

• Trekking poles for the Thastayoq hike.
• Portable seat pad if you like to sit quietly while waiting for species like the Royal Cinclodes.
• Portable power bank to keep your phone or camera charged, especially if you’re using eBird or GPS apps.

Pro Tips for a Great Birding Experience

1. Acclimatize first: Spend at least a night in Ollantaytambo or Cusco before tackling Abra Malaga.
2. Start early: Bird activity peaks in the morning, and you’ll beat the clouds that tend to roll in by mid-morning.
3. Take it slow: The air is thin up here. Walk slowly and drink water.
4. Respect the environment: Stick to trails and respect local customs if visiting community lands.

How to Include Abra Malaga in Your Peru Itinerary

One of the things that makes Abra Malaga such a great birding destination—beyond the amazing species—is how easy it is to include in your Peru travel itinerary. Whether you’re planning a birding trip, a cultural tour, or a combination of both, Abra Malaga fits right in.

✔️ From Cusco

It’s a full-day trip from Cusco. We typically leave early (around 4:30 AM), bird the pass and surrounding habitats, and return to Cusco by evening.

✔️ From Ollantaytambo (Sacred Valley)

This is the most convenient base. Since you’re already close to Abra Malaga, you can make the most of your birding time and choose between:

• A one-day tour (elfin forest, cloud forest, and puna)
• A two-day trip, including the Polylepis forest at Thastayoq for endemic species like the Royal Cinclodes.

✔️ From Machu Picchu (Aguas Calientes)

For those staying in Aguas Calientes, it’s possible to visit Abra Málaga by returning to Ollantaytambo by train and combining it with a birding extension.

One Day or Two?

If you only have one day, you can cover a huge diversity of habitats along the roadside—cloud forest, elfin forest, and puna grasslands.
For serious birders chasing endemic species, we always recommend adding a second day to hike to the Polylepis forest at Thastayoq, where you’ll have the chance to see the Royal Cinclodes and other rare species.

Combine Birding with Culture: Machu Picchu, Manu, and Abra Malaga

👉 BIRDING AND CULTURE IN MACHUPICCHU AND MANU ROAD See more details here

or see our Fixed Departures here

If you’re looking for a birding and cultural experience, we offer an incredible 13-day Birding and Culture Tour in Machu Picchu and Manu National Park.
In this itinerary, we combine:
✔️ Abra Malaga’s endemic birding
✔️ The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, exploring the heart of the Inca Empire
✔️ Manu National Park, one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, for lowland Amazon birding

Conservation at Abra Malaga—Protecting Endemic and Endangered Birds

If you’ve spent any time birding in Abra Malaga, you’ll understand something right away: this place is fragile.
The windswept Polylepis forests, the cloud-shrouded slopes, and the delicate balance of species that live here make it one of Peru’s most valuable and vulnerable birding hotspots.

For all its beauty and biodiversity, Abra Malaga is under threat. Habitat loss, climate change, and human activities have taken their toll—especially on the endemic and endangered species that call this place home. But there’s hope. Conservation initiatives are making a difference, and birders can play a vital role in protecting this remarkable area.

Why Conservation at Abra Malaga Matters

Abra Malaga is home to some of the rarest birds in the world, including:
✔️ Royal Cinclodes (Cinclodes aricomae)
✔️ White-browed Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura xenothorax)
✔️ Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes alpinus)

These birds are critically endangered or endangered, with extremely small populations. Most of them are Polylepis forest specialists, depending on one of the most threatened habitats in the Andes.

How Birders Can Help: Responsible Birdwatching in Abra Malaga

Your role as a visitor—and birder—matters. Here’s how you can make a positive impact when birding in Abra Málaga:

✔️ Support Local Eco-Tourism

• Hire local guides who work with community conservation programs.
• Stay in eco-friendly lodges or accommodations that promote sustainable practices.
• Buy handmade crafts and products directly from local communities.

✔️ Stick to Trails and Respect Habitats

• Don’t stray into sensitive areas, especially Polylepis regrowth zones.
• Avoid playing bird calls excessively—it can disturb nesting or feeding birds, especially rare species.

✔️ Contribute to Citizen Science

• Submit detailed eBird lists with accurate locations and species counts.
• Share photos responsibly (i.e., without revealing nest locations).
• Report any suspicious activities (illegal logging, hunting) to your guide or local authorities.

✔️ Donate to Conservation Projects

Organizations like ECOAN and American Bird Conservancy accept donations that go directly toward habitat restoration and bird protection projects in Abra Malaga.

Conservation Success Stories in Abra Malaga

It’s not all doom and gloom. Thanks to reforestation and community-led initiatives, we’re seeing positive changes.

✔️ Polylepis forest cover is increasing in key areas like Thastayoq.
✔️ Sightings of Royal Cinclodes are stable—and even slightly up in recent years—because of these efforts.
✔️ Local communities are increasingly involved, seeing conservation as an opportunity rather than an obstacle.

I’ve guided trips where local villagers proudly point out reforested slopes they helped plant years before. That kind of pride and ownership gives me hope every time I visit.

Final Thoughts: Conservation Is a Shared Responsibility

Birding in Abra Malaga isn’t just about ticking lifers off your list. It’s about understanding the fragile beauty of the high Andes and taking part in its protection.

As birders, we have a front-row seat to some of the world’s most remarkable species—but with that privilege comes responsibility. Every step we take towards sustainable birding helps ensure that future generations can experience the same wonder.

And when you finally lay eyes on that Royal Cinclodes, knowing you’ve helped protect its home makes the sighting even more special.